A Self-Guided Walking Tour of LES

A Self-Guided Walking Tour of LES

  • Sapir Team
  • 09/6/24

 

 

Prepare to explore the lively Lower East Side! With its vibrant history, culture, and charm, this region offers a glimpse into the dynamic present and the remarkable past of New York. Rich with history and teeming with culture and nightlife, venture into a walk through the neighborhood's streets and acquaint yourself with everything the LES has to offer!

Bowery Street

Embark on your journey at the Bowery Street J/Z subway station (★), located on Delancey between Chrystie and Bowery Streets.

The Bowery subway station, named after the well-known Bowery Street that once stretched the entire length of the island from north to south, is among New York's oldest major streets. The street was named after its origins as a Native American pathway that Dutch settlers adapted to link New Amsterdam with their farmlands, known as bouweries.

Over the years, immigrants from various backgrounds came together on the Lower East Side, creating a unique identity and rich history for the area. This is how the neighborhood became well-known for its tenements, which provided housing for waves of immigrants and played a crucial role in the growth of New York. It was once a bustling commercial hub and the heart of the city's theater activity.

It was once a bustling commercial hub and the heart of the city's theater activity.

The Lower East Side continues to exude a vibrant energy and a rich array of cultures, blending timeless charm with modern design. The Bowery Station serves as your gateway to this lively neighborhood, where you can observe the lasting impact of its rich history on the current local culture.

 

The Bowery Ballroom

Take a moment to appreciate the Bowery Ballroom right across from you (2), a renowned music venue that has welcomed numerous talented artists over the years. The Bowery Ballroom is a celebrated homage to the neighborhood's rich artistic history, as the Bowery has consistently served as a focal point for New York's music and art scenes. Numerous renowned artists, including The Black Keys, Red Hot Chili Peppers, The White Stripes, Metallica, The Killers, Idina Menzel, Lady Gaga, Phoebe Bridgers, R.E.M., Coldplay, Kanye West, Lou Reed, Joan Jett, Radiohead, The Roots, Lana Del Rey, Måneskin, and many others, have graced this iconic venue with their performances.

 

Germania Building Bank / 190 Bowery

Turn left onto Bowery Street and head north. The Germania Building Bank (3) can be found just one block up on the corner of Bowery and Spring Streets, on the left. Constructed in 1898, this historic building served as a bank for the many German immigrants living in the area, also known as Kleindeutschland (Little Germany), which back then represented the most important German-American center in the United States. Originally, the Germania Building Bank featured a public banking hall on the first floor, as well as a series of offices and a meeting room for the board of directors, while safe vaults for deposits were situated in the basement.

The Germania Bank changed its name to “Commonwealth Bank” in 1918, most likely as a result of World War 1.

In 1966, it was acquired by Jay Maisel, a well-known photographer who not only kept it as his private residence, gallery, and art studio until 2015 but also rented part of the building to artists Adolph Gottlieb (Guggenheim Museum) and Roy Lichtenstein (MoMA).

Nowadays, the building (partially) ended up returning to its beginnings and is now home to co-working spaces for cryptocurrencies and blockchain enterprises.

The stunning architecture, featuring Corinthian columns and a beautiful domed roof, beautifully reflects the vibrant ethnic diversity of the Lower East Side.

 

Yonah Schimmel's Knish Bakery

Continue north on Bowery and make a right on E Houston Street to find yourself at the renowned Yonah Schimmel (4), a famous knish bakery that has been delighting customers with its exceptional, traditional Jewish pastries since 1910. Founded by Romanian immigrant Yonah Schimmel as a pushcart bakery, the business grew and eventually moved to its current location on Houston Street. Now operated by Yonah's great-nephew, Alex Wolfman, the bakery has become an iconic landmark and a beloved subject for artists, including Hedy Pagremanski and Harry Kernoff. Its cultural significance has been strengthened through appearances in popular media, like Woody Allen's 2009 film "Whatever Works."

Knishes were initially brought to the Lower East Side by Jewish immigrants, and Yonah Schimmel has continued this tradition, offering a glimpse into the neighborhood's intriguing Jewish heritage. Grab a Knish to go and continue on the tour.

 

The Hare Krishna Temple

Continue walking east and turn left on First Ave. Just around the corner, you will bump into one of the very few peaceful spiritual oases within the city - The Hare Krishna Temple (5). The presence of this temple highlights the Lower East Side's ongoing role as a welcoming community for diverse groups and spiritual practices.

The temple holds great historical and spiritual significance for the International Society for Krishna Consciousness (ISKCON). It served as the first Krishna temple in the West and the initial headquarters of ISKCON, founded by Srila Prabhupada. The small storefront played a crucial role in the growth and spread of the Hare Krishna Movement, which now has hundreds of temples worldwide. After Prabhupada's passing, devotees recognized the importance of the location and made efforts to re-lease and renovate the space.

Today, the temple offers weekly programs, including chanting, the study of ancient Hindu scriptures, and vegetarian dinners, welcoming serious seekers and those interested in experiencing the spiritual teachings and practices of this movement.

 

Katz's Delicatessen

Head back the way you came and onto E Houston, and continue east. On the Cornet of Ludlow Street, you'll come upon Katz's Delicatessen (6). Famous for its delicious pastrami sandwiches, this Jewish deli has appeared in various films and TV shows and was listed among Anthony Bourdain's favorite dining spots in New York City.

Originally named Iceland Brothers, the deli changed ownership and eventually became known as Katz's.

In 2021, Katz's partnered with Hendrick's Gin to create gin-inspired pickles, showcasing the innovative spirit that has kept the deli relevant and beloved throughout the decades.

During World War II, Katz's Delicatessen played a significant role in boosting morale among American soldiers by encouraging families to send salami to their loved ones in the army. This initiative became one of the deli's famous catchphrases and found its way into popular culture, including films and songs.

Even today, Katz's continues to support American troops overseas by offering special international shipping to U.S. military addresses and sending gift packages to soldiers stationed in Afghanistan and Iraq, showing a longstanding commitment to those who serve. If Knishes aren't your thing, make sure to stop for lunch here, or grab a pastrami to go.

 

The Lenin statue and the Angel Orensanz Foundation Synagogue 7

Continue east on E Houston and turn right onto Norfolk Street to discover the intriguing public art installation called the Lenin Statue (7).

Perched on top of the rooftop of the Red Square building, the statue has sparked political discussions, endured damage, and undergone decoration throughout the past 31 years, becoming a contentious element of the Lower East Side's history. The Lenin statue was first created and showcased in the Czechoslovak Socialist Republic. An American entrepreneur found it in a junkyard after the collapse of the Soviet Union. He acquired it and arranged for its relocation to Washington State, where it was showcased temporarily in 1993. The private ownership of the statue and its location on private property indicates that public and governmental entities have minimal control over its existence, a point often highlighted in conversations about it.

The Angel Orensanz Foundation synagogue is situated right next to the Red Square building. Constructed in 1849, this synagogue is the fourth-oldest in the United States and the oldest one still in existence in New York City.

 

Kehila Kedosha Janina Synagogue

Continue down Norfolk St. and hang a right onto Stanton. You'll be passing the heart of the LES's food and nightlife scene on Essex, Ludlow, and Orchard Streets. if you're touring in the afternoon or evening and have the time, walk off the tour path and explore these lovely streets, or maybe stop at the famous Pianos bar to make a reservation to watch some live jazz music for the following evening. From Stanton Street turn left on Allen Street and head south.  On the corner of Broome Street, you'll find yourself right in front of the only Greek synagogue in the Western Hemisphere. Another illustration of the neighborhood's historical importance as a center for Jewish immigrant life is the stunning Romaniote Jewish synagogue, Kehila Kedosha Janina (8), known for its impressive architecture and distinct history.

Kehila Kedosha Janina, was founded in 1906 by Greek Jewish immigrants from Ioannina. The congregation thrived in the pre-World War II era, with services attracting large crowds during the High Holidays. However, the community has since dwindled, making it difficult to meet the minyan requirement for Shabbat worship.

The Janina Landsmanshaft has a burial plot at Wellwood Cemetery, which includes a memorial dedicated to the Jews of Ioannina who perished in the Holocaust. Guided tours of Kehila Kedosha Janina are offered on Sundays and by special appointment, allowing visitors to learn about the history and traditions of this unique Romaniote synagogue.

Right across the street is the Tenement Museum, and if you follow Broome back towards Essex, you'll arrive at Essex Market. While not explicitly indicated on the map, feel free to check out this museum’s offered guided tours as well as another eclectic food-must of this part of New York.

 

Kossar's

Whether you stayed on Allen Street or took the detour to Essex Market, turn left onto Grand Street and continue east. 

At Kossar's (9) you'll be able to grab (another) quick and delicious bite. This is a beloved, classic Jewish deli and a local spot to every Lower-East-Sider. Do not forget to hop over to the Pickle Guys next door for fresh pickles - and truly any possible pickled vegetable you could think of. These two LES food gems are the ultimate salute to the charm of traditional Jewish cuisine.

After a union dispute and fire in the early 1960s, Kossar's Bialys moved to its current location at Grand and Essex Streets. Over the years, the bakery has changed ownership and undergone various upgrades, including a decision to no longer operate as a kosher establishment.

Kossar's Bialys has been featured in popular culture, with former New York Times food critic Mimi Sheraton using it as the starting point for her book, "The Bialy Eaters: The Story of a Bread and a Lost World."

 

Bialystoker Synagogue

Head east on Grand Street and make a left onto Willett Street. Here you'll find the Byalistoker Synagogue (10), a remarkable representation of Jewish architecture steeped in history, as you stroll along East Broadway.

The Bialystoker Synagogue, located at 7-11 Bialystoker Place in the Lower East Side of Manhattan, is an Orthodox Jewish synagogue with a rich history. Originally constructed in 1826 as the Willett Street Methodist Episcopal Church, the building was purchased by the Bialystoker Synagogue congregation in 1905. The synagogue was designated a New York City Landmark in 1966 and is one of only four early-19th century fieldstone religious buildings remaining from the late Federal period in Lower Manhattan. It is also the oldest building used as a synagogue in New York City.

The congregation was initially organized in 1865 by a group of Jewish immigrants from Białystok, then part of the Russian Empire and now in Poland. The congregation later merged with another group from Bialystok, to form the Beit Ha-Knesset Anshei Bialystok or Bialystoker Synagogue.

 

Forward Building

Head back the way you came, to Grand Street. Make a right, then a left onto Samuel Dickstein Plaza, and then another left onto East Broadway. Walk a few blocks along Seward Park (which is on your right) until you reach the site where the Yiddish-language newspaper once was, namely The Jewish Daily Forward (11).

The Forward was a prominent American Jewish publication and has significantly influenced world and national news by presenting a center and center-right Jewish perspective on the modern United States.

Established as an independent nonprofit association, it initially began publishing in 1897 as Forverts, a Yiddish-language newspaper founded by Yiddish-speaking socialists in New York City. Over the years, it evolved into an influential platform for sharing socialist and trade unionist ideas among Jewish immigrants.

The Forward was known for its journalistic integrity, publishing firsthand accounts of Soviet Union atrocities and providing early reports on the Holocaust, often before other media outlets acknowledged these events.

In 2019, The Forward transitioned from print to exclusively online editions in English and Yiddish. This shift came with a 20% reduction in editorial staff and the departure of its editor-in-chief.

 

Jarmulowsky Building

Continue on East Broadway to the end of the block and turn right onto Rutgers Street, then left to Canal. On the corner of Orchard Street, you'll come upon the Jarmulowsky Building (12). Built in 1912 by the Jarmulowsky family, Jewish immigrants from Poland, the building was designed as a tenement structure to accommodate the influx of European immigrants to the area. The Jarmulowsky Building stands as one of the most iconic reminders of the time when the Lower East Side was a fulcrum for the newly arrived immigrants. This structure is now a historical landmark.

Today, the Nine Orchard luxury hotel is located in this historic former bank building. The building was indeed transformed into a dynamic 113-room hotel that pays homage to its past while offering a unique hospitality experience. The hotel so happens to be part of The Leading Hotels of the World and has been recognized for its impeccable design, impressive food and cocktail scene, and exceptional stay by the Micheline Guide. It also features some restored architectural details, like the vaulted ceiling in the lobby and the domed tempietto on the rooftop.

 

Eldridge Street Synagogue / Museum At Eldridge

Keep heading west on Canal Street, then turn left onto Eldridge. On your left you will find the Eldridge Street Synagogue (13).

Constructed in 1887 and renowned for its transcendent architecture, the Eldridge Street Synagogue stands as you proceed toward East Broadway. The fusion of Moorish, Gothic, and Romanesque elements elevates its façade, making it a landmark of the Lower East Side.

As one of the first synagogues built in the U.S. by Eastern European Jews, it holds significant historical importance. The Orthodox Jewish congregation still owns the synagogue and hosts weekly services. Founded in 1852, the congregation initially worshipped in rented spaces before acquiring a Welsh chapel in 1856.

In 1886, two separate congregations merged, resulting in a more diverse membership from various Eastern European backgrounds. The unified congregation sought to create a grand synagogue to differentiate itself from Reform synagogues and attract Jewish immigrants who were flooding into New York City. In doing so, it set standards for other Orthodox congregations in the area and ended up becoming a prominent example of the proto-Americanized synagogue. In addition to hosting religious services and organizations like Hebrew schools, it also played a role in the broader community by hosting events and supporting local causes.

Following a $20 million renovation, the Eldridge Street Synagogue was rededicated in 2007 as the Museum at Eldridge Street, expanding its role as a cultural and educational institution.

 

Knickerbocker Village

Turn right onto Division Street and walk under the Manhattan Bridge, turning left on Market Street. Head south and turn right onto Monroe Street. You have reached the last stop on our tour, Knickerbocker Village (14)

This 12-building complex is a historic housing development constructed in 1933, meant to replace tenements and slums to symbolize the neighborhood's dedication to affordable housing and community-focused development. This project even received federal funding and ended up replacing an area known as "Lung Block," which at the time had a high tuberculosis mortality rate.

However, despite initially intended to provide low-cost housing for middle-income families, rising rents in Knickerbocker Village forced many families back to the slums they had left. The complex later became the center of tenant organizing activities and landlord-tenant laws, including the current rent control regulations.

In the 21st century, Knickerbocker Village faced challenges such as damage from Hurricane Sandy in 2012 and debates over rent increases. In 2019, a tax break helped prevent a significant rent increase that would have negatively impacted many tenants. The complex is also notable for being one of the first affordable housing complexes to implement facial recognition technology.

You can finish your tour here or walk a few more blocks to the famous Brooklyn Bridge and walk across it, marveling the breathtaking views of lower NYC's skyline. Either way, take a moment to appreciate the transformation of the Lower East Side from a European immigrant center to a diverse, modern community that still cherishes its rich history and cultural diversity to this very day.

A Self-Guided Walking Tour of LES
A Self-Guided Walking Tour of LES
A Self-Guided Walking Tour of LES
A Self-Guided Walking Tour of LES
A Self-Guided Walking Tour of LES
A Self-Guided Walking Tour of LES
A Self-Guided Walking Tour of LES
A Self-Guided Walking Tour of LES
A Self-Guided Walking Tour of LES
A Self-Guided Walking Tour of LES
A Self-Guided Walking Tour of LES
A Self-Guided Walking Tour of LES
A Self-Guided Walking Tour of LES
A Self-Guided Walking Tour of LES
A Self-Guided Walking Tour of LES
A Self-Guided Walking Tour of LES